If the water remaining in hydrant does not run out rapidly after closing main valve, it is evidence that the waste-orifice (J) has become filled up, or that the earth around hydrant is not properly drained. If the first, it can be remedied in a few moments by taking up the hydrant and removing the obstruction.

In extreme cold weather it is not unusual for some of the upper working parts of hydrants to stick together by the action of the frost, and this often gives the erroneous impression that "the hydrant is frozen." In such cases a very small quantity of steam injected at the nozzle (not down to the valve) will usually remove the difficulty.

The common practice of injecting large quantities of steam at a high temperature down to the valve is very objectionable and generally ruins the valves.

To get at the stuffing-box (F) unscrew the nut (H) at top (which has a left-hand thread) by turning to the right, then remove revolving or sleeve-nut (R) from the rod. The cap (L) can then be removed by taking out the bolts, leaving stuffing-box exposed. In replacing pieces, put them on in reverse order, first cap, then revolving-nut, and lastly top-nut (H).

The hydrants are well painted before leaving our manufactory, but they become so marred by shipment, handling, and setting, that we would advise an extra coat of paint, after setting, in every instance, as not only adding materially to their neatness of appearance, but as a preservative against the effects of exposure to the weather.